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16 September
My rendez vous with Somephone worked out
perfectly. He was there with another monk friend. We entered the 25 seat
Nissan bus along with around 35 others. I was seated next to Jay an
American from New Jersey on his first visit to SE Asia. He was planning
to go up country on the same route as myself.
The heat was almost desperate as we
waited for the bus to fill up. There was approximately 50% more people
than seats. The one hour drive on mainly good roads was breezy with the
windows open.
We stopped at the Friendship bridge over
the Mekong to Thailand. There was a big immigration terminal and customs
post. Most of the passengers got off Leaving myself, Jason (J),
Somephone and two other monks. The road became poor after this point
with bad ruts and pot holes. Sitting at the back made a bumpy ride.
The Buddha Park or Xieng Khuan is one of
the highlights of Vientiane . It is a collection of some incredible
Buddha images in concrete built in the 1950s by the eccentric Luang Pu.
As a lover of follies this place is a photographers delight. The
concrete figures arranged in a grassy area alongside the Mekong. Having
a small troop of willing monks helped with our baggage and Somephone
eagerly took the chance to take team photos.
 The centre piece is a huge pumpkin like
building which we entered through the mouth of hell. More built in scale
for children; some of the passages were low and with steep steps it I
not a place for someone with a large back pack. There were frequent
apertures where you could see the figures inside. Representing Earth
Heaven and Hell on three levels; the dusty cobweb draped Buddha’s and
figures were a delight to explore.
Dim lighting added to the atmosphere.
It was a grown up kids playground. We emerged at a dizzying roof top
with great views of the site. Only a small handrail by the exit hole
prevented a fall to oblivion. Those who suffer from vertigo or are
claustrophobic should not enter here.
The top had a symbolic tree with an
awkward entry down vertical steps to the dark chamber beneath. J went
first, I found it difficult to manoeuvre at right angles into the dark
void, so took the easy way back by the exit hole. The other exhibits
were interesting enough with a large reclining Buddha and a smaller 4
headed Buddha with 8 arms looking more like a crab with human head. A 3
headed elephant and a huge frog swallowing the moon were the most
bizarre creations. I tried to climb a tower; by the way of an impossibly
steep and narrow steps. before a sense of self preservation plus a dose
of vertigo persuaded me to go back down. We had a drink in a Pavilion
overlooking a locals soccer game and the ever present river.
Somephone suggested visiting the Culture
centre on the way back . It seems a good idea at the time. There was not
a lot to see there other than a display of concrete dinosaurs; a few
faded statues, an empty exhibition hall. A small and overgrown zoo
didn’t impress. Most of the cages were empty apart from an aviary
containing concrete birds, a few peacocks and a tiny monkey cage. The
views of the Friendship Bridge made the stop just about worthwhile.
We returned on a tuk tuk, larger
than a Thai one, seating 6-8 persons. A group of girls hopped on as we
left, two standing on a fender and clinging on. We returned to the
market for the walk back to the river.
I decided to give Somephone a gift to
help his study. He had been a good companion and did not give any sob
stories. He was a genuine guy who was keen to learn English; I offered
to buy him a book the help his study. He selected an English
pronunciation guide purchase from the market. |
