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I wanted to go to the That Leung Guest House. The driver took me a long
way before I discovered he was taking me the wrong direction to the That
Leung Stupa
He took me back to the city insisting that I go to a place near the
Morning Market which was not where I wanted to be. The Driver had not
heard of the That Leung GH so I suggested my second choice near the
river; the Villa Manoly. The driver was still pushing for me to stay at
the other hotel at $20 I saw it as we passed It looked OK but in the
wrong place.
Wat That Xeng
The Villa Manoly looked lovely with gardens and small pool. The room was
good; but no internet or anywhere nearby; so tried others on the list .
There was a serious communication problem the driver couldn’t understand
me and it was now so dark, I couldn’t see the small writing on the
Lonely planet guide to show him. I asked to go down to the river and he
took me to The Pakse hotel just of the river . It looked nice; but the
rooms were small and without chair or table. At $25 I would expect
better.
The third try was the Hotel Inter City the LP guide gave a good
recommendation and being on the waterfront was in the centre of things
The driver wanted $10 for the ride; I wouldn’t pay that as he didn’t
know where he was going and was on the commission game for sure. He
reluctantly accepted 40,000 kip which I think I was being generous.
 As soon as I entered the Inter City I could see this was a classy and
attractive place. The lobby and common areas were gorgeous with lots of
antique furniture wood and ceramic sculptures and mosaic tiling . Rooms
led off a covered atrium or courtyard. The rooms were a good size
and the deluxe were beautiful with 4 poster bed and river views, I
picked a standard twin with window. Perfect and very stylish and for $30
inc Breakfast. With in-room internet access and free wireless internet
in the lobby It was the perfect place to stay! I had a great Indian Meal
at the Nazir Restaurant on the river front
Hotel Inter City Lobby
Vientiane maths
15th September
After a pleasant breakfast in the restaurant; I took a walk around
the city. Looking at the Inter City from the road it was not a
distinguished building at all. It certainly doesn’t look as old as
the interior suggested. I love this hotel; it was a joy to wake up
in such a nice room with its creaking wood floors, wood furniture
and double l doors to the inner court. The outside just doesn’t do
the hotel justice. just goes to show that one shouldn’t judge a book
from its cover.
I walked to the mini mart where I bought a city map. It was another
map with numbers with a lot of information in such small type as to
be virtually unreadable. Oh dear I must be getting old I suppose!
When People ask my age and I tell them; they look surprised and
think I’m a lot younger. A good thing really I suppose; but anyway I
must move on.
The riverfront was a bit disappointing; just a rough wasteland of
high unkempt grass with a scattering of food and drink stalls on a
embankment; supposedly as a flood defence. The river was high and
swiftly moving. The 3kilometre long island of Hat Donechan was just
a small circle of grass. The only notable building to the south was
also the cities highest; the 15 story Donechan Palace Hotel.
 I
walked into the city through a small circular park with a pool with
the fountain switched off. From there I found the That Dam Stupa in
a neat square. The tower was overgrown and not the national icon I
was expecting. Looking closely I could see that is was not this
golden edifice; but a brick tower in need of restoration.
I continued through neat modern
streets to Lane Xang Avenue and the Morning Market, housed in a
green roofed pagoda style building adjoining a shopping mall. I
spent an hour wandering among the stalls.
I bought another alarm clock to
replace the one that broke a day or so before. I have a really bad
time with clocks and watches; the only one that is reliable is my 10
year old Ingersol which is worn out and sand been to hell and back;
yet still works OK keep buying new ones but they always break; so I
resisted the temptation to buy another in the vast jewellery market
on the upper floor.
 Outside
I met a tuk tuk driver who offered to take me to the Victory Gate
and the Wat Luang Stupa; the golden temple which is shown in most of
the guide books. The Victory gate was built in the 1960s in the
shape; but not style of the Arc D’Triumph in Paris. It was never
finished; so is not in the same league architecturally as its French
Counterpart. Ugly as it is in drab concrete; some of the interior
detailing is quite nice; a kind of Asian style Baroque with blue and
gilt painted ceiling. A 3000Kip entrance fee allowed access to a
stairway to the top.
The two floors of souvenir markets on the upper floors of the arch
took me by surprise. It is a huge monument with great city views The
views of the small park below and the surrounding cityscape
certainly had a French look to it. One could almost be in Paris
except that there was little traffic on the 8 lane, Lane Xang
Avenue.
I met a monk, Somephone, who didn’t appear to have a phone but gave
me his email address. He lived near Pakse at Wat Nalao temple near
the 1000 Islands on the Mekong, close to Cambodia. We talked for
some time from the elevated viewpoint. I agreed for Somephone to
come with me to the Buddha Park by bus. I would pay his fare and he
could explain about it He would teach me a few words of Lao and I
would help him with his English. We arranged to meet at 9m by the
bus station by the Morning Market.
 I
found my driver waiting patiently for me on the road. It as around
2kms to the Golden Stupa Pha That Luang; or World Precious Sacred
Stupa. I spent a while in the grounds taking photos. As I approached
the walls the doors closed. As a couple of Westerners emerged, I
asked to enter, the uniformed guard told me the gates closed at
12pm. A glance at my watch confirmed that morning was over.
With a little persuasion; the guard let me in for 5 minutes. Well
all I wanted to do was take a few photos as the sun was bright and
the clouds wispy and attractive.
Ten minutes later after walking
around the walls; which were a painting gallery for local artists; I
left the site and returned to the hotel. I offered the driver 50k
Kip which was around $5.50 . He wanted 70k Kip . I questioned his
mathematics I felt confused as he had agreed half that 2 hours
before and I’d given him a$3 extra for waiting time. Anyay he had
lost his chance for another trip later as I’d find someone else.
I had lunch in the nice Alexia Tex Mex Restaurant. The music was
great and the Chili Con Carne pretty good. I stayed in the hotel for
a few hours and walked around the riverside for a while. As sum
began to drift down I looked for a good sunset viewpoint. Being a
picky bastard I wasn’t going to hang around by the food stalls where
the grass was so high you couldn’t see the water properly anyway.
I walked east to where the river curved slightly. An area of freshly
cut down grass looked a possible viewpoint. I struggled through the
boggy grass to where I saw the only moving boat a powered canoe
which was moving slowly upstream against the current. The sunset
wasn’t great in fact became cloud bound before I reached the shore.
I found an easier route back to the smarter river bars; where
presumably my antics on the river banks might have caused them some
amusement.
I ate at the Inter City Stone House Restaurant; nice food if a
little expensive; service could have been better. I ordered a dark
Lao Beer and got Normal Lao; My chicken dish ended up being pork. Oh
Well the food tasted OK so I wasn’t gong to make an issue of it;
just let them know the mistake.
All text and Images © Dave Perkes 2007
www.peaceofasia.com |
By 5pm one could see the approach of urban Vientiane with isolated
factories merging with nice villas along the road. Traffic increased
and a large flowery roundabout and wide boulevard signified entry to
the city. 
