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We had the option of minivan or VIP bus to LPrabang. At the Bus station was a minivan about to leave. It looked cramped; so I felt that the bus would be a better option. We had to wait 20 mins; but the bus arrived on time; wasn’t too crowded and passed the minivan later anyway.
The drive was spectacular passing by one mountain vista after another . The good road passed over some impressive high mountains with thatched villages on some of the ridges. The six hour bus ride was a very enjoyable one. The only main stop was at a cool village where was time for a snack and a toilet stop if one could find one!
The old French colonial part of the city Is well kept and attractive with 3 main roads with pedestrian lanes crossing them. Many touts were around offering accommodation.
The Sakkarene Guest house looked OK For $12 with Aircon and a decent size room was a good choice. The rooms opened out onto a bright courtyard. There was no bar or restaurant ; but plenty nearby.
A walk down to the Mekong river brought a nice sunset and the interest of locals playing petanque; the group shown here were measuring their shot with a drinking straw.
Mekong Ferry boat
The city is a very interesting place indeed; with dozens of temples; a lot of tour operators running trekking, kayaking and caving tours. You could even have a course learning how to be a Mahout and look after elephants. There was no shortage of food either with Western and Asian in well kept restaurants. The Luang Prabang Bakery was a good choice for the first meal with decent pizzas and pastas.
21st September
The first objective of the day was helping J dry out his passport which he forgot to remove from his shorts pocket when wading through the rivers OOPs! Well the ink didn’t run on his Laos visa, so he was going to get out of Peoples democratic Republic without being accused of being an illegal alien.
The nearby Phusi Hill has a golden stupa (floodlit by night)which towers over the town. Near the road by the Royal palace id the old Wat Pha Huak with a carved wood fronton depicting Buddha riding on a 3 headed Elephant. Below, ancient faded wooden doors were locked firmly shut. There were many persistent flower vendors who followed us up the steep steps. A small garden offered some views of the street. But the wind
ing steps led to a spectacular panorama round the base of That Chomsi; the gilded stupa pinnacle which is seen from all over the town. There are many shrines, and Buddha figures around the hill and yet another Buddha footprint. I guess I’ve seen too many Buddha footprints; so I wasn’t too impressed by the hole in the ground with the large foot shaped depression. What I did find exciting was the cave shrine with a stately white bearded figure. A large gold Reclining Buddha and seven Buddha sets representing the days of week, were placed around the rocky summit. That Chomsi Stupa
Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham is a very atmospheric temple with beautiful red and gold columns and sculptured walls. Monks were inside chanting over a huge display of offerings. I was reticent about photography at first; but I was told it was OK. The interior was as spectacular as the outside with some of the most beautiful statuary.
The dark red and gold interior was a challenge to photograph a fast lens and high ISO necessary. I walked to where a group of monks were changing tapes on the house stereo. I took a couple of discrete wide angle photos of the monks. A man tapped me on the shoulder and shook his head. I apologised as I did not want to cause offence. Strangely enough the 2 photos of the monks turned out totally out of focus. Was that my mistake, or interference from a higher being?
The next place to visit was the National Museum or Royal Palace. Covering a large site with palm trees and a lily pond it was a nice place to wander. The Sala Pha Bang, close to the road, had spectacular red and gold mirrored interior; with some Khmer influence in the windows, doors and figures.
The focal point was an immense altar with gilded eagles and a pair of Nagas facing the door. The wood doors were pivoted at two points top and bottom with the central panel bearing a close similarity to the ones seen in stone on many of the temples in Cambodia. Although the building is a recent 21st Century creation; it reflects the fact that Laos was part of The Khmer Empire from 10th to 14th centuries. Sala Pha Bang
The Royal Palace; was built in 1904 with some alterations in the 1930s. The spectacular reception halls have some very ornate decoration. The wall mosaics in the Throne Room are quite breathtaking. In contrast, the Kings Banqueting hall and bedrooms are simply decorated in white with teak wood furnishings. It may be a surprise to some that the Monarchy continued until 1975 when Laos became the Peoples Democratic Republic of Laos. Thankfully the heritage has been preserved and well maintained. Photography is only allowed outside; so bags are left with shoes in a well organized and secure lockers.
Old Fiat outside wooden house Luang Prabang Bakery GH
At 5 pm I took a stroll up to Phusi Hill for sunset. It was very busy up there with dozens of tourist vying for the best viewpoint. The summit rocks were the best place to see a golden sunset over the Mekong River backed with the hazy mountains. I met up with j at the Sakkarin GH and had a meal and a few beers. Jason was continuing his journey up the Mekong by boat to Thailand. I was gong trekking to the hill tribes in the north.
Sunset over the Mekong River
All text and Images © Dave Perkes 2007 www.peaceofasia.com
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It
was a further 3 spectacular hours on the bus to Luang Prabang. It’s a
sizable place at the junction of the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers.
