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Womad

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Hill stations of Malaysia

Melacca

Singapore

 

August 2005 I went in Search of the Real Malaysia and an opportunity to see

the WOMAD World music and dance Festival at Fort Canning Park Singapore.

 

The Plan was simple : there was no plan; very simple!  Well  did book

the WOMAD  festival and some Cheap backpacker accommodation in a

hostel in Singapore .

 

Other than that I just wanted

the 3 weeks to drift by and go

with the flow so to speak. 

 

 It was refreshing to be a

backpacker for a change and

experience life on the other

side of the reception desk!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I Arrived in Singapore 7am after an overnight train journey from Kuala Lumpur, with  not a lot of sleep on the train. there was a long wait to get through immigration just across the causeway from Jota Baru

 

Compared to Kuala Lumpur  the entry to Singapore got off to a poor  start. For what supposed to be a modern efficient city the station is a miserable excuse for one. The run down appearance and unhelpful staff did not impress. There were no links to the metro or the buses which were alongside a depressing flyover a few moments walk away The café was grim and not what I expected at all. there was so much grease on the spinning fans that I expected to blackened with the slimy fall out. the Coffee and pastry was OK and they did reluctantly accept Malaysian Ringits.

I spent an hour just finding and waiting for numerous buses; all were not going where I wanted to. I became  desperate in the end I just wanted a bus to anywhere just to get moving! I could have got a taxi (tight fisted git!) but I was determined that I was not going to be beaten by the bus system. I waited for a 70 after advice from a guy waiting a the bus stop. When the bus did turn up the driver told me it wasn’t going to North Bridge Road one of the most important streets on the city. half an hour later after nearly weakening and taking a taxi I actually boarded a bus going in the right direction.


I arrived at Cosy Corner Backpackers Guest house at approx 10am. The old 3 story shop house was above a Chinese café and approached by a bright orange narrow stairway. It was busy and cozy i.e. cramped . However as I wasn't going to be there much I could not justify $50 + for an overpriced hotel elsewhere in the city.

 

The windowless dorm room was basic with shared loos. At first I was offered a bed under the aircon which did no suit me at all. I

asked for fan room but they were all full so I had a different bed in an aircon room. The staff were  very helpful staff and there was unlimited free internet access for guests.

I had  lunch at the Yuckee Noodle cafe opposite the Ah Chew Hotel! The service was fast but impersonal which rather sums up a lot of Singapore. It is a rich city where much of the old has disappeared under a cityscape of steel and glass. The old red light district of Bugis has been developed into a cute shopping centre of rebuilt shop houses with curved roof to keep the sun away.

 

Singapore skyline before a storm

                 

Old Tudor                           Durian shaped concert halls                Waterfront Bars

I Had a look around the city using the modern Metro system. Like most things here; it is immaculately clean. The marble and glass halls escalators; moving walkways are as far removed from Cambodia as could be imagined. There is a flood defence system which means you have to go up steps to go underground. The trains are concealed behind smoked glass wit hi tech plasma TV screens giving ads and info between trains. They have similar system on the new double decker buses.

 

Singapore city is not so big; so walking around was easy once I had got used to the 80% humidity.  Walking up Orchard road, the English style street furniture and signs made me feel as though I'd been transported to a new English city like Milton Keynes a few years in the future.  Little touches of old colonial British architecture still remain.

               

Chinatown and Little India reminded me so much of colourful Victorian suburbia. Little India was by far the most real and vibrant place in this city and felt like Beovis Town and St Mary's in Southampton with its two storey terraced houses and backdrop of 1960s high rise flats.

 

After a day or so of exploring Singapore, I' had seen enough shopping malls to last a lifetime. The city is full of them with flash hotels and office blocks It is a squeaky clean place, even the roads and pavements are polished!

 

It was time to get down to some Music


Womad Festival >>

fun and horror  in  Tiger Balm Gardens  >>

Spectacular Architecture in Kuala Lumpur  >>  

Malaysian Rainforest  >>

 

All text and Images © Dave Perkes 2007  www.peaceofasia.com